Misia and I took an afternoon break to see Midnight In Paris, the new Woody Allen movie.  Which, by the way, does everything that Inception tried to do but with a 20th of the budget and is a good movie rather than a bad movie (like Inception.)  Sorry, fans-of-things-that-we-wanted-to-be-good-but-actually-suck-when-we-really-think-about-it.

I’m not going to spoil Midnight In Paris if you haven’t seen it, mainly because I didn’t know anything about the story line and it was delightful to watch the magic roll out. But, it did articulate something I’ve felt since graduate school, and that is this: whatever you take as inspiration, be it writing or film or dance or painting, you need to think of all of the work that came before you as contemporary.  If we think of art history as history, it dampens its impact on our understanding of its importance.  BUT! If you view art history as all present tense, as work made by fellow artists, it helps to strengthen the notion that all art made is a part of a larger continuum.  There is no difference between paintings made 500 years ago and paintings made yesterday.  Good work takes hard work, and those that rise above the fray are all good in the same way.  Great work has magic to it, and that magic-making hasn’t changed in forever.

So.  We were at The Louvre looking at Tintoretto’s self-portrait (pictured above) hanging next to Titian’s own self-portrait.  The tension on the wall is palpable, even 450 years later.  They each had their own swagger, their own magic.  It was always my feeling that Tintoretto is every artist’s choice between the two, though no one will ever deny Titian’s talent.  It’s Letterman and Leno, and while Leno gets the ratings, Letterman gets the respect.

The day after we went to The Louvre, we saw the Manet retrospective at the Musée d’Orsay.  I fell in love with Manet in grad school when I formulated the theory that he and Tintoretto have the same swagger, the same magical love of painting.  They wink, they pull pranks, they love painting above all else.  These are my kinda guys, I thought to myself.  THEN, as I was walking through the gallery, I saw a painting of Manet’s that I had never seen before:

Holy.  Shit.  The sonofabitch did it!  He believed the same thing I do, that he and Tintoretto are on the same wavelength!  This moment for me was a total face melt on so many levels.  Manet is doing a shout-out across the centuries to Tintoretto that essentially says, “we’re all present tense.”  Great artists look at art.  They look at a lot of art.  Manet, with this painting, tells everyone before him and everyone after that this is how it’s done.  To be great, we do our homework, kids.  Do yours and not only will you have a chance to be great, but you’ll also be a part of the club.

This was the greatest present that Paris gave me.  To re-affirm vis-à-vis my two favorite boyfriends that there is only the present.

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Our vacation was magical, and as you might expect, we saw a tremendous amount of art.  Seriously, I saw nearly every artwork that has graced all of my art history books from childhood to today.  London and Paris have a lot of history, but they were also quite clever about stealing the best paintings and sculptures known to humanity.  Huzzah to them, I guess.  This (mainly pictorial) post is all about Paris; I’ll write a London wrap-up very soon.

This is the view from The Pompidou Center, which is a weird and wonderful place.  Built ostensibly as a salute to French ingenuity, the most memorable feature of this building was a sound installation piece that echoed throughout the Habitrail-like escalator enclosures of Sacred Chants of the Gyuto Monks Tantric Choir.  I highly recommend clicking on the link and listening to it.  Mesmerizing, as well as an enjoyable walk down a Pompidou hallway.

This is The Luxembourg Gardens.  I’ve included this photo because I took it with my iPhone.  Can you believe phones? (Note: I took all these photos with my phone, but this one is particularly postcard-esque.)

Here are some Space Invader tags we found around Paris.  We also saw a few in London.

Because we’re in Paris.

The top of the tower was magical, but the best part of the day was lounging in the park afterwards.  I drew the tower while Misia alternately napped and took photos of cute Parisian kids playing soccer.  Oh, and we had hot dogs and beer.

How pretty are the Metro stops?

I laid a flower at Chopin’s grave in Père-Lachaise Cemetary.  I also said a silent word or two at Seurat’s family plot.

Of course we went to The Louvre.

Staircase at The Louvre.  The French know how to do majestic.

We passed this little gem, and I couldn’t believe no one was around.  here is essentially a holding pen for art that is usually stored in the basement.  These sculptures were moved in anticipation of flooding (or renovations, I can’t remember) and they looked magnificent.  So spooky, so pretty.

Venus.  My tattoo.

The most annoying painting in art history.  Don’t believe me?  Take a look at the room:

Is there anything more vulgar than this?  I mean, seriously.  This painting is more infamous than good.  It’s behind bulletproof glass.  You can’t get closer than 12 feet from it.  And what on earth are people going to do with all those photos of this painting?  And the kicker of this room (roughly the size of a high school gymnasium) is that some of the best paintings in the world line the walls.  No one is paying any attention to them!  Which is good for someone like me, but I mean really.  You’re at The Louvre! Get your 15 euros worth!  Look around!  To wit: look at the paintings in the background.  Do you see what’s happening?

That’s Titian on the left and Tintoretto on the right.  Two of my biggest influences, hanging next to each other.  And they hated each other!  It’d be like if in 400 years, the Red Sox and the Yankees were hung next to each other on a wall somewhere.  But there they are.  Fucking amazing.

At The Musée d’Orsay, they had a Manet retrospective.  Manet changed my life, so despite the crowds, I needed to spend a lot of time in this gallery.  Afterwards, I couldn’t even look at anything else.  I have a maximum memory capacity when it comes to museums, and once I’ve had my fill, I can’t spoil it with other stuff.  I will argue, until the day I die, that Manet’s work will always look just as current and just as exciting as anything made right now.  His stuff is magical.

Sneaky pic of the Musée d’Orsay.

And that’s my wrap up of Paris!  I’m not going to bore you with our fun vacation-ey photos.  But I do add this one, because it’s from the famed Café de Flore in the St. Germain district.  If you want an eight Euro cappuccino in the same cafe that Sartre, Picasso, Camus, and Gertrude Stein held court, this is your place.  But for real, what price to sit on the most beautiful corner in Paris, thinking your thoughts, existing in the world, would be too much to pay?

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Neither paint nor brush

have a dog in this fight.  Just

me: the matador.

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